Tenerife Island
Tenerife is an island of superlatives. It’s the largest island, attracts the most tourists and boast the highest mountain, not only in the Canaries but also in Spain. For decades the island has been known for its winter sun and bustling resorts offering year-round party action, but in fact those resorts take up a tiny (albeit increasing) corner of the island.
Tenerife is an island of superlatives. It’s the largest island, attracts the most tourists and boast the highest mountain, not only in the Canaries but also in Spain. For decades the island has been known for its winter sun and bustling resorts offering year-round party action, but in fact those resorts take up a tiny (albeit increasing) corner of the island.
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| Tenerife |
It’s
sad that many people fail to get out and explore the island, but try to
go against the grain and see what else Tenerife has to offer. In the
northeast and northwest there are natural parks offering fine hikes and
traditional villages that are a far cry from the garish multi-storey
hotels in the south. The north is dotted with charming towns and cities
all offering tidy streets lined with architecture spanning a few
centuries. There are also some fine museums in the north of the islands
and it’s worth remembering that all of Tenerife’s government-run museums
offer free admission on Sundays. For those seeking a beach holiday,
Tenerife will not disappoint, although most of its golden beaches are
actually man made. Beaches in the south can get crowded, but as soon as
you stray from the built-up resorts you’ll find quieter stretches of
sand.
Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Tenerife’s capital is
the second largest city in the archipelago, though it feels like a much
smaller place that its great rival, Las Palmas.
It snatched the title of capital from La Laguna in the 19th century and
today it’s a fine place to shop, picnic and party. The Canary Islands
lack decent city parks but Parque García Sanabria is a wonderful place
to wander and enjoy a bocadillo (sandwich). The city’s other
park, Parque Marítimo César Manrique, lacks greenery, but it’s still
worth visiting for the sculptures and on summer evenings for the open
air bars that spring up along the seafront. The striking centrepiece of
the park is the Auditorium, opened in 2003 and inspired by sails
fluttering in the wind.
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As you would expect
Santa Cruz has a few decent museums, including the Museo de Bellas Artes
(Fine Arts Museum) and the Museo Militar with its 30m² model of the
1797 battle where British Vice Admiral Horatio Nelson lost his arm. The
best museum though, and among the finest in all of the islands, is the
Museo de Naturaleza y del Hombre. Set aside a full afternoon to explore
the huge collection looking at the volcanic origins of the islands and
the lifestyle and customs of Tenerife’s pre-Hispanic inhabitants, the
Guanches. Entrance is free on Sundays.
The city itself
doesn’t have a beach, but the golden sand of Las Teresitas is just 7.5km
away in San Andrés. It’s not a natural beach, but that doesn’t stop the
citizens of Santa Cruz flocking en masse at the weekend – stick to
weekdays if you want to find a spot for your towel.
And if there’s one
time to visit Santa Cruz it’s in late February/early March for the
carnival celebrations. Thought by many to be second only to Rio,
Tenerife’s capital hosts an immense two-week party featuring parades,
makeshift bars, lots of costumes and the all-important crowning of the
carnival queen.
Tenerife Island, La Laguna
La Laguna (or San Cristobál de La Laguna to give the town its full
title) was capital of the island until Santa Cruz stole the crown in
1883. Most agree that it’s a more charming spot than the capital, even
though there’s not a great deal to do. Tenerife’s second city does have a
couple of good museums. The Museo de Historia is a good place to get
some background on Tenerife’s history.
Just out of the city is the Museo de la Ciencia y el
Cosmos, a superb day out for families (or anyone curious about science
and space). Kids (big and small) can play with the 100 or so interactive
exhibits and participate in a bit of ‘cosmic tourism’ – a taste of what
the future holds for adventurous travellers perhaps. Other than the
museums, La Laguna’s attractions are low key: taking photographs of the
pretty side streets, enjoying coffee and churros (deep fried sticks of
dough usually enjoyed for breakfast) in the market and joining students
in the hip cafes. La Laguna also boasts a good nightlife scene – there’s
a lot more going on here than in Santa Cruz, though it’s not as raucous
and in-your-face as the all night party sessions in Playa de las
Americas.
Parque Nacional del Teide
Sitting in the centre of Tenerife, its often snow-capped peak visible from all but one of the other islands, Mount Teide is the island’s crowning glory. At 3,718m it’s Spain’s highest mountain and is an absolute must-see for any visitor to Tenerife. Before tackling the mountain, drop in at one or both of the visitor centres – El Portillo in the north eastern part of the park and Cañada Blanca at the southern entrance..
Reaching the top of
this dormant volcano isn’t too tough, as long as the cable car is up and
running (if the winds are blowing it’ll most likely be out of action).
The cable car (known locally as the teleférico) whips visitors up from
the main road running through the park to a viewing platform a little
shy of the peak at 3,550m. It’s an eight-minute ride, rising just over
1000m in altitude.
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Those who want to
continue to the peak have to apply in advance for a free permit, as
tourist numbers are limited at the delicate summit.
For the more adventurous and the
energetic there is an easy-to follow hike to the summit. Leaving from
the El Portillo visitor centre, the hike snakes through the badlands
before leading trekkers up a steep and unrelenting slope. A six-hour
(12km) hike leaves you at the Refugio de Altavista, a mountain hut with
very limited resources. After a chilly night’s sleep, hardy hikers arise
before the sun to trek the final hour and a half (3km) to the summit,
where the pungent aroma of sulphur hangs unmistakeably in the air. Views
from both the peak and the refugio are stunning, as long as you can
beat the clouds (and the crowds if you’re opting for the cable car). A
word of warning though – the Canary Islands are renowned for their
temperate climate, but up here all bets are off. Make sure you take warm
clothes and if you’re hiking be prepared for a very chilly morning
start – gloves, hats and waterproofs are not a bad idea.
An alternative hike is the Siete
Cañadas route, a long but flat hike through the badlands, keeping the
mountain’s peak in sight throughout. It takes five hours to walk the
15km route and can get seriously hot, so make sure you take plenty of
water. The hike starts at the El Portillo visitor centre and snakes its
way through a barren backdrop, ending at the Parador – a government run
hotel and a good place to revive with a coffee or perhaps something
stronger.
Tenerife Island - Los Cristianos, Playa de las Américas and Los Gigantes
Once a quiet fishing village, Los Cristianos has long
since been consumed by southern Tenerife’s tourist boom. But while huge
hotels and bustling bars spring up, the town has not lost all of its
charm and retains more of a Spanish feel than its neighbour a little
further along the coast. The port, although smaller than in days gone
by, still welcomes a number of inter-island ferries and a small fishing
fleet, offering possibilities for photographers.
As you head west you reach the mammoth and
perpetually expanding resort of Playa de las Américas. Purpose built in
the 1960s for the rapidly expanding tourist population, Las Américas is
big, brash, noisy and makes no apology for it. Its beaches are largely
fake (the black sand that’s native to this part of the coast was deemed
unsuitable for the tourist masses) and its skyline is less than pretty,
but if there’s one thing that Las Américas does well it’s nightlife. The
party happens every day of the year and centres around the multi-storey
Veronica’s Strip. This is also the golfing centre of the island, with
five 18-hole courses to choose from.
Those looking for a
quieter time would do well to head to the island’s northwest coast and
the resort of Los Gigantes. Like Los Cristianos the town had humble
origins, but the towering cliffs along the coast proved a popular
tourist draw and so the hotels began to spring up. The cliffs, shooting
up to 800m from the ocean, gave the town its name (meaning The Giants)
and a boat trip along this stretch of the coast is an unmissable part of
any Tenerife trip. Once you’re back on dry land, Los Gigantes has some
exquisite black sand beaches and more than a handful of good seafood
restaurants.
If the beaches, karaoke bars and English pubs of the large tourist resorts are getting too much, it’s easy to escape.
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Occupying the
north-eastern and north-western points of the island, the parks of Anaga
and Teno offer an experience that most people would never expect to
find in Tenerife. Both regions are covered with healthy doses of
cloud-enshrouded laurel forest that provide delightfully shaded spots
for hikers. The ravines of the Parque Rural de Anaga, northeast of Santa
Cruz, make for a challenging landscape for walkers, but if you begin
your hike in the mountains and head down towards sea level you’ll
certainly get the best of the park without too much difficulty. Aim to
end your hike in the truly delightful hamlet of Taganana, a tiny
settlement of cobbled streets and well-preserved traditions. The
restaurants here serve only the most typical of Canarian foodstuffs,
washed down with locally produced wine – quite a potent brew!
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